R1150r Manual

• R1150r Manual Karl Kudlow

. Oilhead Maintenance Manual R850, R1100, R1150, R1200 Internet BMW Riders and Oilhead Riders.

Edited by Carl Kulow Send comments/corrections to kulowc@indiana.edu ISBN R-850-1100-1150-1200 Third Edition 2-25-02 Copyright: IBMWR and Oilhead Riders The authors have done their best to produce accurate information. However, they assume no liability for any damage or injury caused by any errors or omissions in this manual. TABLE OF CONTENTS Section I – by Carl Kulow MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.6 PARTS AND TOOL LIST.7 Cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures ALTERNATOR BELT.8 VALVE ADJUSTMENT.9 SPARK PLUGS.12 AIR FILTER.13 LUBE SIDESTAND AND CENTERSTAND.14 CLUTCH CABLE.14 BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID.15 BRAKE PADS.16 BATTERY INSPECTION.17 FUEL FILTER.18.

TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONTINUED) Section II – by Various Authors ROUTINE R1100 SERVICE - PAUL GLAVES.32 VALVE ADJUSTMENT - STEPHEN KARLAN.38 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT - PAUL GLAVES.40 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT - BOB GORMAN.41 BRAKE BLEEDING - STEPHEN KARLAN.42 CHANGING THE FUEL FILTER ON AN R1100RS - JON DIAZ.47 EXTRNAL FUEL FILTER MODIFICATION - ROB LENTINI.49 SYNCHRONIZING R1100 THROTTLE BODIES - BOB GORMAN.53 THROTTLE BODY SYNC - JON DIAZ.54. Note: When performing maintenance on your bike, be sure that you consult multiple sources of information such as your owner’s manual, www.ibmwr.org/, and the various bike specific lists. Haynes, Clymer, and BMW have maintenance manuals with pictures and instructions that are invaluable – get one of each for. Service – Every 6K Miles Engine oil and filter - change Brake fluid – check Brake pads – check Clutch fluid – check Sidestand – grease Sidestand switch – check Spark plugs – check Valves – adjust Throttle cables – check Throttle Bodies - synchronize Inspection –. (BMW) rubber gloves (dishwashing) flashlight, minimag measuring cylinder (photo store) Twin Max or carb stix Mityvac or “one man brake bleeder” tire change tools (see tire change instructions). 5.

Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Use the spark plug socket in the BMW tool kit instead.

I welded a nut onto the end of my BMW socket so I could use a torque wrench on it when installing the spark plugs. Note: The valve covers may stick slightly and you will need to tap them firmly with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet. Note: Be careful not to dislodge the black rubber vibration damper block in the bottom front of the valve adjustment area (not on some R1100). Note: One method is to insert the feeler gauge and tighten the adjuster until the feeler gauge will not slide, then back off the adjuster a little until the feeler gauge begins to slide. Note: You can use the “go, no go” method – a.008in. Gauge should not go into the.006 intake.

Spark Plugs Tools Parts T-handle hex –5mm, 6mm spark plugs plug wire cap puller sparkplug socket short extension ratchet hex socket - 6mm small flashlight spark plug gauge torque wrench anti-seize paste 1. The spark plugs were removed in steps 1 – 9 of the preceding valve adjustment procedure. Air Filter Tools Parts phillips screwdriver air filter compressed air 1. Remove the rear and then the front seats.

Unscrew the two phillips screws holding the air filter cover down (some bikes have clips). Pivot the cover up.

At the rear of the transmission pry the clutch release arm to release the clutch cable there 3. Lube both ends of the clutch cable with BMW #10 grease 4. Reattach the cable at the transmission 5. Using the knurled adjuster at the hand lever adjust to 12mm between it and the knurled locknut 6.

Same as Front Brake Fluid Reservoir above, but on the left handlebar. Brake and Clutch Fluid Replacement – Bleeding the Brakes Note: BMW calls for a fluid change annually. Good brakes are too important to skip this relatively straightforward procedure. This applies to the clutch and rear brake as well.

Note: On the 1150 GS, BMW has a plug or grub screw instead of a bleeder nipple on the right front brake caliper and on the clutch slave cylinder. BMW wants you to replace these with a bleeder nipple to bleed the system and to then reinstall the grub screw when you are finished. Battery Inspection Tools Parts flashlight, minimag distilled H phillips screwdriver hex socket – 6mm ratchet Quick Check Method 1. Place the bike on the centerstand. Remove the front seat. Hold a minimag flashlight right up against the battery, at the expected electrolyte level, and next to the cell you are checking.

Fuel Filter Tools Parts siphon fuel filter empty gas can large tank o-ring rubber gloves 2 small hose clamps pencil 2 tiny hose clamps hex bit socket – 6mm socket – 8mm ratchet Note: The following is based on the procedure for my R1100R which should be similar to other oilheads. Miscellaneous Tools Parts tire gauge none sockets hex bit sockets ratchet torque wrench powdered graphite T-40 Torx bit socket 1. Check tires for nails, tread wear, damage, etc. Check tire pressure. Check rear wheel lug bolts, 17mm socket, torque to 105 Nm.

Sump Guard Removal (GS only) Tools Parts socket – 10mm loctite(?) ratchet channel lock pliers Note: Before you do the test ride, remove the sump guard (skid/bash plate) from the bottom of the engine in preparation for the oil and filter change after your test ride. Hot Engine and Drivetrain Procedures (i.e. Normal operating temperature) Throttle Body Sync Tools Parts Twin Max or carb stix none screwdriver, flat blade needle nose pliers wrench, 10mm house fans Note: If you are doing this procedure for the first time, you should seat the brass bypass screws and record the number of turns for each.

turn both in, clockwise, to decrease the idle speed. Adjust the same large brass bypass screw on each TB to get the Twin Max to zero i.e. To balance the TB’s at idle. You can turn just one of the screws for a minor adjustment, or both screws in opposite directions if the balance if off quite a bit. Engine Oil and Filter Change Tools Parts oil filter tool oil – 4 qts. Hex bit socket – 8mm oil filter ratchet crush washer - drain plug torque wrench rubber gloves funnel oil drain pan 1.

Remove the sump plates (skid/bash plates) – see page 18 for instructions. Transmission Gear Oil Change Tools Parts hex bit socket – 8mm gear oil, synthetic (75W/90) 1000cc socket – 13mm crush washers ratchet - drain plug short extension - fill plug oil drain pan carb or brake cleaner torque wrench clear tubing (tygon) funnel measuring cylinder (photo store) 1. Rear Wheel Drive Gear Oil Change Tools Parts socket – 19mm gear oil, synthetic (75W/90) 250cc hex bit socket – 6mm crush washers ratchet - drain plug oil drain pan - fill plug carb or brake cleaner torque wrench funnel measuring cylinder (photo store) 1. Other Procedures Brake Pad Replacement Tools Parts hex bit socket – 8mm brake pads ratchet hammer punch (nail?) screwdriver, flat blade torque wrench Note: I have not done this procedure on an R1150GS yet, so the following is based on the procedure for my R1100R which should be similar. Note: Many riders are particularly pleased with EBC pads which can be ordered through any motorcycle dealer from Tucker-Rocky.

Place the bike on the centerstand. Remove the front caliper bolts that hold it to the fork leg, 8 mm hex bit socket 3. To remove the caliper, gently rock it back and forth on the rotor to spread the brake pads.

(BMW) axle to fit adapter (BMW) tape grease Front Wheel Removal 1. Place the bike on the centerstand.

Weight the rear of the bike so it will not rock forward. Front Tire Change Hints: Warm the tires in the sun!

A warm tire goes on much more easily. When levering the last of the tire bead onto the wheel, be absolutely certain the opposite bead is not seated but rather squeezed into the middle of the wheel. Put just the wheel, no tire on it, on the balancing stand and check for the heavy spot and use that rather than the tire stem for the heaviest spot. Lube the second bead and push it down with hands, knees, feet ¾ the way 16. Using three tire irons pry the tire on the rest of the way - the real secret is to be sure the opposite side of the tire is squeezed into the center of the wheel (use bead breaker if necessary). Rear Wheel Removal 1.

Place the bike on the centerstand. Block up the bike under the catalytic converter so the rear tire is up off the floor 3. Put the bike into first gear. Remove both saddlebags. Remove the rear brake caliper by removing the caliper bolts that hold it to the rear drive, 8 mm hex bit socket. Your valuable machine and your personal safety depend on your abilities.

If you break something or ruin something it won’t be BMW’s fault. It won’t be my fault.

You are responsible for what you do and how you do it. BMW has used different terminology to describe maintenance intervals and requirements over the years.

represents a failure due to a lack of maintenance or improper maintenance may be an issue. Do not take shortcuts! Do not neglect recommended maintenance! Document the maintenance you do! I do not recommend that any owner perform the initial (600 mile) service on a motorcycle. If it is too loose it will squeal.

Please note that the belts now in use by BMW will slightly squeal for a few seconds when the engine is started cold. This is normal. Do not attempt to make the belt so tight as to eliminate this cold start-up squeal. Check the Brake Rotors: Examine the brake disks for scoring and wear. BMW specifies a minimum thickness of 4.5 mm (.17 inches) for the front rotors and 4.6 mm (.18”) for the rear rotor.

Carefully examine the “rivets” which attach the front floating disks to their carriers. “tunnel” cast into the lower right side of the transmission case. BMW specifies 80, 90, or 80w90 wt gear oil. Consult your manual for the temperature ranges. Fill the transmission to the bottom of the fill hole threads.

This is so fluid is forced out of the caliper cylinders and stale fluid is not trapped in the calipers. BMW specifies a special tool to retract the pistons. If you are careful not to damage the pads, you can retract the pistons with tapered wedges which should be left in place during the flushing operation to hold the pistons in the retracted position. Remove plug wire from plug by using 2-inch long black plastic loop tool contained in your BMW tool kit. The purpose of the black plastic loop tool is to give you a handle to pull on that will pull the plug wire off the plug. Holding onto the loop end, point open side toward rear of bike while hooking the tool onto the plug wire boot, then pull out to remove the plug wire. After the first valve is adjusted, the second valve will then be adjusted while the first is stabilized.

To check if a valve is properly adjusted, attempt to insert the next thicker size of feeler gauge - it should be too big to fit. The valve clearance may change as you tighten the lock nut. Clutch Adjustment - Paul Glaves The clutch adjustment at the hand lever specified as 7mm when resistance is felt is a bit deceptive, or at least ambiguous.

Proper clutch adjustment procedure - which BMWNA says is critical to proper clutch operation is: a. Clutch Adjustment - Bob Gorman A just released service bulletin revises the clutch freeplay specification to 12mm between the knurled nuts and 7mm at the lever.

This is revised from 10mm and 5mm respectively. It appears that improper clutch adjustment has been the cause of many shifting problems. R1100 and R850 yearly maintenance requires replacing (by bleeding) the brake fluid. RECOMMENDED FLUIDS Use only fluids from a new, never-been-opened container.

The manual calls for: BMW DOT4, Castrol Disc Brake, DOW ET 504 Shell Donax DOT 4, Hydraulan DOT 4. None of these is a synthetic. Close the bleeding nipple while fluid is STILL COMING OUT and BEFORE the reservoir is empty, (4) Add more fluid to the reservoir and start this cycle again. Memorize step The brake nipple is located on the caliper body.

Stand to the left side of the bike and look at the front wheel. After the fluid has been completely replaced and all nipples are tight, check that the front and rear reservoirs are filled and secure. Slowly pump the front brake lever, then pump the foot pedal until there is a solid feel. Continue pumping the brakes for a few minutes, then recheck the reservoir level and refill if necessary. Some shops bleed at the ABS under the tank, some do not.

Under tank bleeding is recommended by the BMW manual. However, you should bleed from under the tank if your bike experiences problems outlined in the paragraphs: ' AIR. 60439, (630) 739 - 4620 phone, (630) 739 - 9626 fax, eMail to: speedbleeder@super- highway.net and web site at The Speed Bleeder has operated as advertised in our limited trials.

Several BMW riders are using this product, and all reported results have been positive. This author has had excellent results.

R1150r Manual Karl Kudlow

Purchase the following before you start: a new fuel filter, a new sealing O-ring for the fuel pump plate, and two standard BMW fuel line clamps just like the ones used on the fuel lines by the right side throttle body (point to these on your bike if your parts jockey doesn't understand). Look at the fuel level sender rod while you have the parts out. There should be an E-ring type circlip holding the float to the rod, but some of the early bikes were missing these and had their floats bobbing around the tank rather than registering fuel level. BMW service intervals. Mind you, one still has to run the tank mostly dry and then contend with modern fuel carcinogens on his or her skin (use surgical gloves!). BMW style 'squeeze together' clamps, NOT worm gear types.

Again, these are also available at BMW or auto parts stores. You only really need 6 of these since two on your bike are reusable, but 8 if you want all new hardware. Observe the fuel filter mounted on the removed fuel pump assembly. Loosen the four crimped hose clamps and remove the filter and two short fuel hoses. One of the fuel hoses has a 180-degree bend, for reference. Replace the filter, two hoses and four crimped clamps with ONE 10' length of new fuel injection hose and two new fuel injection clamps.

This is and will continue to be a hot topic amongst R1100 owners. Properly synched throttle bodies will greatly reduce surging and vibration but getting them synched and keeping them synched is probably the most difficult of any BMW motorcycle to date. Dealers were required to purchase a $1000.00 special instrument in order to properly synch the big twin but it can be done with the conventional Carb-Stix.

First attach the Carb-Stix to the each throttle body by removing the black vacuum hose on the underside and attaching the Carb-Stix. It is not necessary to plug off the removed vacuum hoses.

If you have fuel injector covers on your bike remove the right side cover only. If you still feel you just don't have it right you can always have you dealer use the BMW Synchro on it. Throttle Body Sync - Jon Diaz How To Synch Those R1100 Throttle Bodies! As an R1100 pilot, you've likely felt it: that little hum in the turn signal switch or the vibrating mirror you can't see out of or worst case, a bike that surges so badly at part throttle you can't ride smoothly. throttle body cable, because this is where you will make the part-throttle adjustment.

There is no need to fiddle with the cable adjuster on the left-hand throttle body. Start the bike. The mercury should come up a few inches in each tube, and if they are at different levels, this indicates a different amount of air is being drawn by each cylinder. Throttle Body Synch – Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow) An out-of-synch condition develops (R850 and R1100) because the throttle body cables stretch or because they lose their adjustment. The result is vibration, sometimes unreal vibration. The following procedure, which I call the Gorman/Diaz Balance, was developed by Bob Gorman and Jon Diaz from Chicago. There is one black tube attached to the under side of each throttle body.

Remove both black (vapor recovery) tubes and you will expose the brass nipples that point down. Attach one of the carb stix's flexible plastic tubes to each brass nipple.

Make certain that the carb stix's plastic tubing does not touch hot exhaust parts. HIGH RPM SYNCH: When performing the high rpm synch, you will be moving the throttle up to 4,000 rpm. Move the throttle slowly to avoid sucking mercury into the engine. The right side crossover synch cable has already been loosened '97- right throttle cable has already been loosened. You can see the large brass bypass screws easily when standing near the turn signals. If you look on the left side, you will find a similar large brass bypass screw.

The official BMW Repair Manual calls this a 'recirculating air screw' at page 00.27. Copyright(c) 1997, Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow), Miami, Florida Throttle Position Sensor - Bob Gorman The throttle position sensor is located on the left throttle body.

It is the black box with an electrical plug extending from the bottom. The sensor is what ties the mechanics of the throttle cable to the electronics of the Motronic. Thus this part of the TPS appears to control idle and off-idle primarily. Publicized idle values as set by the BMW analyzer are the source of the above.370 -.400 figures. These values appear valid, though changes to individual machines may be advantageous. Throttle Screw and TPS Adjustment - Stephen Karlan (reviewed by Rob Lentini) I. The Problems.

Surging - A condition of increasing and decreasing power, cycling back and forth, when the throttle is held absolutely steady at a fixed rpm (such as 3,500 rpm while using a throttle lock, tape or rock-solid hand). TPS without resetting the throttle stop screws.

These do not violate the BMW warning and these may be used before resorting to this procedure. The author of this article assumes no liability for any damage or injury to you or your bike caused by any errors or omissions.

If you are not certain you have found the throttle cable, either find another BMW rider with an R bike and ask for help finding it, or go pester your local mechanic. with a small wrench (counterclockwise). There is a metal piece that is threaded into the lock nut which can now be loosed with your fingers by turning it in a clockwise direction. Loosen the lock nut as needed so the cable is loose.

Check this by twisting the throttle on the handlebar. remove the hose if necessary. Remove (cut off) the plastic cable tie that secures a wire if it obstructs the working area. Replace the cable tie, hose and clamp when finished with the throttle plate screw adjustment. The physical manipulation that is described in the next paragraph (especially on RS models) is a challenge to your stamina and will take time, patience and any odd-ball tool that works. If you look on the left side, you will find a similar large brass bypass screw. The official BMW Repair Manual calls this a 'recirculating air screw' at page 00.27.

Count and record the turns you make to lightly seat both the right and left large brass bypass screws by turning them clockwise with a flat screwdriver. Attach one of the carb stix's flexible plastic tubes to each brass nipple. Make certain that the carb stix's plastic tubing does not touch hot exhaust parts; the tubing will melt. There is no need to plug the black vapor recovery tubes. Throttle Cable and “Choke” Cable Replacement, and Service of the Cable Junction Block on a Late Model Oilheads - Bryan Lally Bikes effected: These instructions are for an R1100RS with the cable junction block (crank wheel) throttle cable. It should be a very similar operation on any of the oilheads except for the differences in fairings and trim parts. Remove the two screws that connect the upper fairing to the front of the gas tank, and the two screws that connect the fairing insert pieces to the front of the gas tank.

Remove the throttle cable from the twist grip (remove the small cover that the cable goes into). Motronic Fault Codes - Stefan Hegnauer Warning!: Although unlikely, it may be possible to screw up the Motronic.

I take no responsibility of any kind if you do so - in other words, it is your risk, and you are on your own if something fails. If you are not absolutely sure you can handle this, do not attempt this procedure! Note 1: There is no connection of the Motronic (diagnostic unit) to any lights Note 2: This is strictly for R1100R/RS/GS/RT, Motronic 2.2. To erase fault memory: pull fuse 5 for a few seconds.

Most of the information given above comes from the BMW booklet “BMW Diagnose - Test Instructions Motronic”, # 01 71 9 789 901. This booklet is about the K1100 but seems to be valid for the R1100 as well, at least in part. ( the fault does not persist!) - the ABS output signal will need some filtering due to short spikes Most of the information given above comes from the BMW booklet “BMW Diagnose - Test Instructions for Antilock Braking System (ABS)”, # 0171 9 798 811 (5.90).

R1100RS Driveshaft And Clutch Spline Lube - Kit Vercella Editor’s Note: A spline lube is no longer listed by BMW as a regular maintenance procedure on recent model bikes. If you have an early model R1100, you should perhaps include a spline lube. Since the bolt threads are covered with threadlock, it is necessary to heat the bolts with a heat gun (BMW recommends to a maximum temperature of 120C). I applied heat to each bolt for 4-5 minutes. Remove right bolt with a 12mm hex wrench socket and a breaker bar (bolt is torqued to 105Nm).

Remove the three screws which secure the air box assembly. One screw is located at the rear of the air box and one screw on each side near the front of the air box. Later you will remove the air box assembly itself. Disconnect the breather hose from the air box and the wire harness that fits into a slot at the front of the air box. There are six bolts holding the transmission to the engine.

First remove the bolts in the upper left corner and the lower right corner. In their place screw in BMW mandrels (part #23 1 280) or make your own mandrels from two M8 X 1.25mm bolts.

I bought two hex bolts 100mm long &. A few torque values: fixed bearing retainer bolts (on right side of driveshaft housing) 150 Nm(105?) idler bearing retainer bolts (on left side of driveshaft housing) 7 Nm locknut on idler bearing retainer bolts 105 Nm transmission to engine case bolts 22 Nm brake caliper bolts 40 Nm. Lentini Need: Many BMW R259 'Oilhead' Boxers surge at constant throttle settings and low to moderate speeds. Precise adjustment of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), one of the two most important input sensors of the Motronic fuel injection system, is critical in reducing or eliminating surging. (CW) until the voltage starts to rise. Continue turning until you reach.370 -.400 volts, the voltage the BMW analyzer looks for the TPS at idle to cause a digital signal to 'flop' or change symbology. Start and warm up the engine to get 5 bars on the RID oil temperature if so equipped.

Idle will be rough due to the need to synchronize left to right throttle bodies. Use a big rear-facing fan from the front of the bike to control cooling, if required.

I recommend only Premium fuel if the ignition is advanced. Never use less than the BMW-recommended Mid grade fuel if the ignition is not advanced. “over” the center electrode as many of us are familiar with. Would these “standard” plugs work?

I took the dive, bought Autolite 3923s, set the gap to the BMW specification of.031” or.8mm, and went for a ride. They worked great! I even noticed smoother power characteristics and somewhat less surging, and this was in early ’96. I’ve been using non-OEM plugs in my oilhead since about March 1996 (about 28K miles) with TOTAL success. By the way, BMW changed their own plug spec to a two-electrode variety in July 1996 under the auspices of the “Low Friction Throttle Cable” service bulletin #2748 which was an attempt to solve the surging I was investigating at that time. Checker for about $1.20 each and then get a $.50 rebate each on top of that.

What a deal for better performance!. Throttle Body Butterfly Bushing/Seal Wear - Rob Lentini Problems with throttle body synchronization and accomplishment of 'zero=zero' may, but rarely, be caused by wear or failure of the throttle butterfly shaft bushings and/or seals.

While these parts are not currently available for replacement (though may be shortly), here's how to tell if you have this rare wear problem: Spray carb cleaner, propane, or simply WD-40 at the throttle shaft pivot area with. Superior broad torque, “user friendly” power delivery and fuel economy is what I seek in an engine. Top speed advocates often perform expensive modifications to a BMW for only a modest peak horsepower increase. Then the machine may be less rideable and reliable on the street. Not my style, thank you!

I prefer strong roll-on power for normal every day commuting, sport riding and touring. By the way, this modification will not affect “Zero=Zero” adjustment of the Throttle Position Sensor if previously performed (re: “Bench Wrenching”, BMW Owners News, May 1997). So how does this $35 “hop-up” perform? Here are the plusses and minuses: First, Jon Diaz (who performed the mod to back up my data). My take, after an initial 500 miles of testing Plusses: Improved roll-on power.

Engine revs more quickly. Bike accelerates in the next higher gear almost like it did with the RS manifolds in the next lower gear. Overall gearing now seems “shorter” (lower) when matched with the increased low RPM torque. 6500 RPM (120 MPH+)?

That’s where the above reported horsepower figures intersect. I’ll settle for “real world” roll-on improvements with inexpensive BMW parts! Note: The GS Cat Code Plug can, in some instances, cause hard starting and cold running problems in some RT’s and RS’s.