Smith And Wesson Model 77a Disassembly Manual
There is a very long story behind this question But here is the short version. S&W was purchased by Bangor Punta in 1965, with the help of a former Crosman Engineer the 77A was developed After several moves back and forth from Florida to Massachusetts Bangor decided to sell the Airgun division to Daisy Airgun in 1980 but had dropped the 77A model in 1978. I don't know of any diagrams for the 77A but it is a forerunner of the Daisy Power-line models. I would try to contact Daisy airgun to see if they 'may' be able to help. See the related link at the bottom. Hard question to answer without more to go on but.
I've been shooting with it for over 10 years and am for the most part very happy with it. I'm shooting it as it came out of the box originally except for adding tritium dots on the rear sights. It is a 'budget' 4' barrel pistol ($450-ish or so) but acts in my hands almost as good as my Glock 17. The action is smooth in single-action mode but pretty stiff in double-action (9.5 lbs I think is what it bench tested at). In the hands of a competent shooter, s/he could easily qualify at 25 yards on a 5' target in single-action firing.
I don't fire it much in DA. Built on an aluminum frame with steel guts it has a good weight but isn't too heavy. In double-tap firing it strays vertically less than my Glock and more than the Sig-Sauer 239. It disassembles relatively easily by holding the slider back about midway and then pushing the lock pin out. I still haven't found the best most convenient way to do this after years of doing it.
Cleaning is a snap but it's difficult to get deep down in the guts to clean (but no more so than other some other semi-autos). I personally have never had a jam with this pistol. Never, not once. I have shot everything with it from Chinese import, Winchester and Remington to reload.
Very reliable in this area. I recommend this handgun to anyone who wants a nice solid 9mm entry-level semiauto but doesn't want to spend a lot of money. It's a really good first timer's semiauto and in competent hands can be a fine handgun. The S&W 915 is basically a lower-cost version of their 59xx-series guns (specifically a 5904). The 915 wasn't manufactured all that long, until it became illegal to sell high-capacity magazines under the assault weapons ban, when it was rebranded the 910 and sold with a smaller magazine.
Smith And Wesson Model 18
As the other person noted, it's a REALLY reliable handgun, and makes for a great personal protection carry weapon. Currently a mint condition nickle 586 is worth roughly 850.00 -1100.00 dollars depending on the mood of the buyer. I recently picked up one from a pawn shop that was brand new never fired in the original case. They were asking 650.00 but i traded a sks and a british enfield for it.
I paid 200.00 for the sks and 150.00 for the enfield. I have had numerous offers for the gun since i bought it. The best was 1100.00 dollars.####WAIT!!Not true, I own a Nickel 586, and it was also sold in stainless as the 686!!!! In response to what is written above: Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a nickel 586.that is the model 686. The 586 is blued.
It is a less expensive (and a little less sought after) gun. Also, if you picked one up new in the original case never fired for $650 from a pawn shop (that I'm sure upcharged it), where do you base your '850-1100' figure? Seems you can get them for $650 from a house that marks a high percentage. 5 years ago (2005) I picked my 586 up for $600 from a dealer. Adjust for inflation from there Not true, I own a Nickel 586!, It was also available in stainless! (My mistake, I did not realize that they were made. However, it does not change the fact that these handguns are not in the 850-1100 range.
Smith And Wesson Model 29
Even according to the OP, who said they were asking 650, and he traded 350 worth of goods for it) -Dooligan. While the magazine is out of the gun,pull the slide all the way back till you see the round shaft of the slide lock clear the area on the slide where it locks.push the slide lock through the notch and pull it all the way out.then pull the slide all the way forward gently and it will come off its track.then you flip the slide take off the spring and pull out the barrell. This should be good enough. I just got mine and it took me forever to figure it out but just remember it can get tricky putting the slide lock back in because of how strong that slide spring is.