Mitsubishi Selfjector Operation Manual

02.02.2020by admin

. 2651 Answers SOURCE: that doesnt sound right at all, no questioning you, your seeing it happen but as a whirlpool tech for MANY years thats not a normal complaint. I assume its a top loading washer. Besides this issue have you had other problems???? Did you replace pump??? Reason i ask is perhaps you switched the pump outlet and inlet hoses( some models they are actually same size) assuming they are in the respective openings, cant really see a reason as to why it would POP off unless theres a magor back pressure issue, have you checked the drainhose itself and looked for a possible blockage?? Thats a pretty hardcore spring style cl;amp holding that on.

  1. Operation Manual Sample

Make sure it pushed allthe way to the throat of pump assy Posted on Apr 02, 2008. 750 Answers SOURCE: Hello Lcl2610. Welcome to Fixya, My name is Huuum, How old is your machine? I have found some reasons of what may be the matter! List of thinks to check 1.Defective Lid Switch Check lid switch for proper operation. Check the switch for continuity. If it is found to be open, replace the switch assembly.

Faulty Direct Drive Coupling The Direct Drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading. Faulty Water Level Switch If the water level switch is not resetting once the water is drain, power will not be available to operate the motor during spin.

Check the water level switch for proper operation. 4.Will not drain and displays F/02 The error code F/02 will be displayed if the drain time exceeds 8 minutes.

Press pause/cancel twice to remove display. Check the pump filter and wiring connections on the pump. If all looks good, replace the pump. You may want to use a pro, rather than attempt this project your self. Let me know how it goes!

Thank you Huuum. Please remember to leave a rating Posted on Oct 21, 2008. Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out.

Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain.

Look inside your fridge for a 'V' shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor.

The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles, debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation.

A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering.

Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. Dec 18, 2014. If it's leaking inside where filter cover is, then real good chance the drains being plugged is the only problem. If water (condensation) not running off roof when operating in cool mode, then I'd bet drains, which are located under unit on roof, and you should see them sticking down like buttons. They have a hole in side that needs cleaning with a pipe cleaner or similar to open them up. If need be, shut off power to unit and remove top cover on roof unit and look for the drain holes in base, and clean them out.

If water comes in while raining, but AC not running, then it's gasket. That is remedied by removing ceiling assembly (just screws) and 4 bolts that pull/hold the upper and lower assemblies together, unplug wiring to upper unit, and simply lift it off, change gasket and re-install. Tighten those 4 bolts equally when gasket is aligned properly over hole, only until gasket is approx 1/2, original thickness. Plug harness back in and your done.

(about an hours work.) Only other thing that may be wrong is styrofoam drip tray for cooling unit, under cover on roof may have a crack, allowing condensation to leak in. If that 's the case, you can try to find a sealant compatible with styrofoam to seal those cracks. Nov 14, 2010.

WITH COOL ENGINE Locate water pump cover on engine, place container underneath then remove drain bolt (the 1 with the copper sealing washer). Only a drip will come out until you undo the pressure cap when it will shoot out. Alternatively drain by undoing a radiator hose hose at the lowest possible point. Then flush with tap water (garden hose is good) Refit drain bolt or hose & refill with coolant (or flushing agent & water if neccesary) Give all hoses a good squeeze to expel any trapped air & top up if needed Refit pressure cap, check for leaks, run engine for 2-3 mins then let it cool before rechecking coolant level Top up the expansion tank too!

Good Luck Ride Safe Bike-Doc!!! Please rate this as helpful (if it has been)!!!

Machine operation manual

Aug 13, 2009. Actually, the only way to fix this delicate piece of machinery is to replace the whole heater core unit. Its the safe and best way.

Here are some step by step instructions on how to remove the old one. I also included instructions for installation of the new core as well. A fix ya rating would be most appreciated.

Remove the Old Core Step 1 Drain the cars coolant from the water pump (remove the surge tank cap and drain bolt). Disconnect the heater outlet and inlet hoses by removing the clamps.

Step 2 Disconnect the Body Control Module. With the battery disconnected, parking brake on and in Neutral, detach the entire front console, pull back the carpet to the right of the left dashboard support bracket and remove all the BCM's connectors and retainers. Step 3 Pull back the carpet below the left dashboard support bracket. Remove the gas pedal from the front of the dash, then remove the center floor outlet ducts. Disconnect the main center floor duct from the heater/air conditioner module. Step 4 Remove the heater core cover, from the HVAC module, sliding it away from the module locating pins and rearwards until the drain tube clears the dash front. Remove the heater core from the cover.

Install the New Core Step 1 Install the new heater core and reconnect the core cover. Use a new drain tube seal on the drain tube. Spray the core seal and dashmat with soapy water to make installing easier. Step 2 Reattach the center floor ducts and the gas pedal.

Install the Body Control Module and the front console. Step 3 Connect the outlet and inlet hoses to the heater, replace the surge tank cap, fill the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable. Step 4 Operate the cars engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

Watch over the climate control operation and check for any leaks. Mar 06, 2009. This a common problem for all front loaders. Your washer will not drain or work 'cause your outlet filter is clogged or an unusually heavy load. The small door is on the left side front bottom of your washer. Remove the door with a putty knife or thin butter knife inserted in the middle top of the access panel door.

Drain the water from the filter housing by pulling the tube out of the clip and unplugging, allow it to run into a bucket while the machine is in spin only mode. This mode is acheived when the washer is first powered on press the spin button until no spin is reached then run. Run in this mode until no water is draining from the tube in the bucket.

Operation Manual Sample

Keep the tube as low as possible. When water has stopped coming out of the tube turn off the washer and unplug from the wall.

This step is important because this resets the fault. Expect some water to come out when you open the filter housing by turning counterclockwise until you can pull the filter from its housing. Clean out your filter, return to housing turning clockwise until seated and recap the tube and place in the holder, refit the cover and plug back into the wall. You may also need to lighten the load a bit but I always try full on load anyways.

If it fails again just lighten, unplug wait 1 minute then replug and run. Dec 12, 2008.

All the information that I have found about this particular problem indicates that the 'F1' error is a flood or overflow alarm. It's generally caused by a clog in the drain line and/or tub not sealing properly when closed. If this is a drawer style dishwasher there is a lid in the equipment cabinet that must seat properly on the drawer when it is closed. If you place items in the dishwasher that are too tall for the drawer lid to seat properly, it will not seal and water will splash over the sides of the tub during the wash cycle. Another common problem is a clogged or kinked drain line. Remove the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged.

Check it at BOTH ends. The alarm is activated by a float switch in the bottom tray of the dishwasher. Look to see if this is any standing water in the bottom tray.

If there is any water, or signs of wetness, the alarm will not clear until it is dried out. I found a couple of recommendations to clear the alarm.

The first involved removing the dishwasher from where it is installed and tilting it at a 45 degree angle to pour any standing water out. Another method is to dry the bottom out with towels as best you can, and then use a hair dryer to dry any residual water. I hope I'm on the right track with this and I hope this solves your problem.

Post back if you have any further questions. CAUTION: UNPLUG the dishwasher or turn off the breaker BEFORE servicing inside the cabinet. Feb 20, 2008.

ID Model Description 401601 SJ 30F MITSUBISHI - HFO Purifier Mitsubishi SJ 30F - Final Drawings with Spare parts 401602 SJ 15F MITSUBISHI LO Purifier SJ 15F - Final Drawings with Spare parts. 401603 MITSUBISHI Selfjector Future Series Purifiers - Operation & Maintenance Manuals 401604 SJ 10F SAMGONG MITSUBISHI SELFJECTOR Purifier SJ 10F - Set of Instructions and Spare Parts catalog. 401605 SJ700 MDO Purifier Mitsubishi SJ700 - Instruction Manual, Final Drawings with Spare Parts 401606 MH-06 Mitsubishi Selfjector Genius Series MH-06 Purifiers - Instruction & Maintenance Manuals. 401700 Separators of the others producer 401701 HH 160 HUTCHISON HAYES, L.P. Separator Model HH 160 - Instruction manual with Spare Parts List.